TV Specs That Aren’t Worth Paying For

1. Plasma vs. LED vs. LCD
Not all HDTVs are created equal. If you're getting a new set, the first factor to decide on is the type of TV that is best for you. Your main choices include:

*Plasma - Plasmas feature an older technology, but don't completely count them out. They are cheaper, have deep blacks for rich contrast, and handle sports and fast motion well. But they are energy hogs, using three or four times as much electricity as Energy Star LEDs.

*Traditional LCD - Bright, with middle-of-the-road cost, traditional LCDs are prone to greyish blacks, and budget models can have blockier motion processing than other options.

*LED-backlit LCD - LED displays can be brighter and thinner than plasmas and LCDs. They are more energy conscious, and the top of the line models handle blacks as well as plasmas do.


2. Specs to Ignore (or at least not pay extra for)

Resolution
Resolution is the measure of how many pixels are on the screen. The higher the resolution, the higher definition you get. HDTVs (High Definition Televisions) are generally sold as either 720p or 1080p - which have 720 or 1080 rows of pixels. You might think having more pixels is better, and you'd be right — but only to a point. The real truth is that the human eye can barely discern the difference between 720p and 1080p except at a close distance on really big TVs. So paying extra for 1080p on a smaller set doesn't make a lot of sense.

Internet connected TV
Sometimes known as smart TVs, Internet-connected TVs allow you to stream to your set all that the Web has to offer. While that's a handy feature, you can always add on a device like the Roku for around $50-$70 or the Apple TV for about $100. Also most DVD players these days also have an Internet port or a way to get access to your home wifi network.

Refresh rate (or Hz)
Refresh rates determine how fast the TV repaints the image on the screen. 60Hz models refresh the screen 60 times per second; 120Hz models refresh the screen 120 times per second. It's true that buying a TV with 120Hz refresh rate instead of 60Hz makes a noticeable difference when watching fast-moving programs like sports, where motion blur can become an issue at 60Hz.

But if you get tempted to buy a more expensive 240Hz model because you think it'll make your TV viewing even better, think again. Many tech analysts agree that the naked eye can barely perceive thedifference between 120Hz and 240Hz, making it unnecessary to pay extra for the latter.


3. Specs that Matter

Size
Buy as big as you can afford, but not too big for your room. THX came up with a useful guide that helps you determine optimal screen size based on the distance you'll sit from the screen:

  • 32 inch class TV = 3.5-5 feet away
  • 42 inch class TV = 4-6 feet away
  • 50 inch class TV = 5-7.5 feet away
  • 60 inch class TV = 6-9 feet away

If a TV's thickness matters to you, then you may want to take a closer look at LED TVs. Samsung's LED9000 series measures a wafer-like 0.3" in depth; no traditional LCD or plasma TV is that thin. LED displays can be thinner than plasmas and CCFL-lit LCDs because some models are edge-lit, meaning the LEDs that illuminate the screen are only located on the edges.

Dimming
If you've narrowed your selection down to LEDs, consider getting a set with local dimming. LEDs without this feature can look blown out, with blacks that look more like greys. Local dimming turns down the brightness in areas that are supposed to be dark, dynamically improving the contrast. Note that edge-lit models with local dimming don't perform as well as full-backlit units with local dimming capacity.

While LED with its local dimming feature, thinness, and minimal energy use may sound the ideal HDTV set, know that it can also be the most expensive option among the three. The 55" Samsung LED9000 model, for example, costs around $2,500 whereas some of Samsung's 50" plasma TVs can be priced as low as $1,149.99.

Matte vs. Glossy
LCDs used to all have matte displays, which tend to fare better in parts of the house with an abundance of ambient light. Glossy displays have better contrast and sharper colors, but you may want to place them in darker places so your TV viewing won't be ruined by glare from lights and windows reflecting on the screen.

As taken from http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/upgrade-your-life/tv-specs-aren-t-worth-paying-225518304.html

Treadmill Features

1. Folding deck

Some treadmills have a hinged deck that you can raise and lock in place vertically for storage. A non-folding treadmill takes up as much floor space as a small couch; a folded model, about half that when folded. Non-folding treadmills tend to feel more stable. But where space is tight, every square foot counts.

2. Electronic programming

This useful feature, found on most of the treadmills we tested, automatically varies the intensity of the workout, the way running up and down hills does outdoors. You can also make adjustments manually. Exercise programs can be an antidote to boredom and may encourage you to work out more often.

3. Heart-rate monitor

You'll generally find a chest-strap heart-rate monitor on treadmills that cost $1,500 and up.
Less expensive treadmills may have a handgrip monitor. A heart-rate monitor helps you to exercise up to your potential while avoiding dangerous overexertion. A chest-strap monitor is the most convenient. It allows you to continually monitor your heart rate without having to hold the hand grip sensors.

4. Controls

Look for well-labeled, intuitive controls: up/down buttons, quick one-touch speed and incline buttons, and large, easy-to-read displays that show multiple functions (time, speed, heart rate, incline) at once. Poorly designed controls and displays are a constant annoyance.

5. Foot rails

Look for wide and flat foot rails alongside the moving belt. Ample foot rails make getting on and off the treadmill easier.

6. Handles or handrails

Most treadmills have them in front and on the sides. Padding is a plus. While they're useful for those who need added security, they shouldn't get in the way of your arms while you exercise.

7. Motor housing

It should be set forward far enough and relatively flush with the front of the belt or concave. It shouldn't get in the way of your feet when using the treadmill.

8. Tethered safety key

On most models, you need to insert a key on the console to start the treadmill. The key comes on a long cord, with a clip at the other end that attaches to your clothing. The cord will pull the key out and stop the treadmill if you slip and fall. It also keeps unsupervised children from starting the machine.

9. Console gadgets

A growing number of treadmills load the console with gadgets such as a CD player, a fan, and even an LCD TV. You might be able to buy these items separately for less. And if they need repair, having them serviced can be a problem.